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Do Mulch Right In Three Easy Steps

Mulch is an organic or inorganic material placed on top of soil in a garden or around plants. Its major benefits are:

  • water conservation
  • inhibiting weed growth
  • professional appearance
  • maintains an even soil temperature
  • prevent erosion and soil compaction
  • increases soil fertility (organic mulches only)
  • can walk in wet garden without getting muddy

  • Step One: Choose What’s Right For You


    Ask yourself first, "What do I want to accomplish?" Prioritize your goals from the above list. Now consider the advantages and drawbacks to the different types available.


    Organic vs. Inorganic

    Organic materials (from things once alive) enrich the soil as they gradually break down. They also attract earthworms, which aerate the soil and add nutrient rich castings. They are generally inexpensive and readily available. But since they decay, they need to be replenished.

    Inorganic materials do not break down and are more permanent, but also more expensive. They do not enrich the soil.

    Following are some common organic and inorganic options, with their advantages and disadvantages.

    TypeMinimum DepthAdvantagesDisadvantagesDurability
    Organic Varieties
    Leaves(shredded)2 in/5 cmcheap, attract earthwormsmay mat down and inhibit air/water penetration if too thick1 season
    Grass clippings (dry)2 in/5 cmcheap, attract earthwormsmay mat down and inhibit air/water penetration if too thick, compost first if sprayed with weed killer1 season
    Pine needles3 in/6 cmcheap, boughs are good winter mulchmay mat down and inhibit air/water penetration if too thick, will gradually raise soil acidity1-2 years
    Sawdust2 in/5 cmcheap, attracts earthwormsdo not use near buildings (termites), acidic: compost first or mix with nitrogen1-2 years
    Wood Chips (home made)2 in/5 cmdecompose slowly, improve soil do not use near buildings (termites)1 season
    Straw4 in/10 cmattracts worms, good winter mulch may contain seeds & some diseasesReapply 2x/season
    Bark (commercial)2 in/5 cmdecomposes slowly; attractive do not use near buildings (termites), expensive1-2 years
    Inorganic Varieties
    Plastic6 milsstops weed growth until tears or decomposesallows no air or water to soil/roots, raises soil temps, expensive1-2 years
    Landscaping Cloth6 milsallows air/water to soil, suppresses most weeds cover with light top mulch to delay deterioration, expensiveIndefinite
    Newspaper3 sheetscheap, prevents weed germination needs top cover to prevent blowing away, can’t use color sections1 season
    Lava/Stone2 in/5 cmformal look, permanentallows weed growth, expensive, lava is light and washes awayIndefinite
    Rubber2 in/5 cmlow fade colors, permanentraises soil temps, very expensiveIndefinite


    Step Two: How Much?

    This is really three questions:

  • how much do I need?
  • how much time will it take to acquire it?
  • how much will it cost?
  • The quantity needed is calculated by: length of plot x width of plot x depth of mulch = cubic volume needed. For example, a 10 ft x 15 ft garden with 2 in. deep mulch is 10 ft x 15 ft x .17 ft (2 in = 2/12 or .17 ft), which equals 25 cu. ft. needed. To convert to cubic yards, divide by 27. If you work in metric measure, simply use meters for all dimensions.

    The time it takes to acquire your materials depends on whether you do it yourself or purchase it. Raking, chipping and shredding takes time. But so does a trip to the store, plus the time it took you to earn the money for the purchase. If you don’t have enough free organic material available, you may choose to make some and buy some.

    Cost considerations should consider both time and money. If one choice needs less time commitment because it is permanent like stone, balance that against a higher initial monetary cost. Do you need to do something with your leaves anyway? Perhaps shredding them with a mower or in a barrel using a trimmer and saving them until they can be applied is a more efficient use of your time than bagging them for disposal in the Fall and then buying wood chips in the Spring.


    Step Three: How to Get the Best Results


    This depends on whether your application is for a growing season or a dormant season. There are also some special considerations for grass, in particular soil types and around buildings.


    During Growing Season

    In Spring wait until temperatures have been above 70 F for two weeks before adding mulch to your vegetable or flower beds. Early season annuals like pansies or daffodils are fine once shoots appear. This will ensure that you do not inhibit seed growth or contribute to decay by locking in cooler soil temperatures.


    During Dormant Season

    These applications reduce erosion, moisture loss and plant injury from frost heaving. Wait until after several hard freezes below 20 F/ -7 C, but before consistently cold weather arrives. This will allow the plants to ready themselves while discouraging rodents from nesting in your garden area, as they will already have found another nest. Use loose material such as pine boughs or straw which will not compact under snow.


    Special Considerations

    Be sure to dry any grass clippings before application, and either compost or avoid altogether any herbicide or pesticide treated grass. To balance its nitrogen content, mix grass with some carbon-containing composting material such as chopped leaves, shredded newspaper or pine needles.

    Do not place any mulch in contact with plant stems, as this may promote rot.

    Next to buildings, avoid using either wood or bark since termites may find this attractive and then migrate to your home. Likewise, reflective white stone near a building will add heat during Summer months, so use dark stone here.

    Finally, avoid using mulch over poorly drained soils. Since mulch promotes water retention, you will only be risking root rot. If you feel it necessary, use only a coarse variety.

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